Why Does Korean Kkomjangeo Wriggle on the Grill? Meet the Hagfish

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A hot plate arrives with pieces of skinless-looking seafood still writhing. Is this dinner, or the opening scene of a creature feature? The dish is kkomjangeo (꼼장어), made from hagfish. These are pieces of a long marine animal, not mysterious internal organs.

1. Is a hagfish just another eel?

No. Hagfish look like eels, but belong to a different, jawless group. Their eyes are poorly developed, and they can release astonishing quantities of slime when threatened.[1] In Busan, South Korea, they are grilled with salt, spicy seasoning, charcoal or straw fire.[2]

2. Why do the pieces move after being cut?

Nerves and muscles may still respond to stimulation for a while after an animal is cut or dies. Korean food reporting specifically describes chopped hagfish moving as they cook.[3]

Motion alone does not establish consciousness. Nor can a brief clip prove precisely when a particular animal died. Some preparation starts with live animals; other methods involve prepared pieces. Not every Korean restaurant places intensely wriggling seafood directly in front of customers.[2][3]

3. Is it like Japan's dancing squid bowl?

There is a resemblance. In the Japanese “dancing squid” rice bowl, soy sauce can stimulate nerve and muscle responses in very fresh squid tentacles, partly through its sodium ions.[4] Hagfish wriggling is likewise associated with remaining neuromuscular activity, although the circumstances differ.[3]

Squid shiokara is something else: salted, aged squid flesh and innards. It is not the soy-sauce-induced movement dish.

4. Does it actually taste good?

Local descriptions mention a savory grilled flavor and a tender but noticeably chewy texture. Salted and spicy versions are both enjoyed in Busan.[2][3] Someone can find the preparation disturbing while another person loves the finished plate. Eyes and taste buds do not always agree.

5. So what did that shocking video show?

Hagfish is a real marine animal. The motion can be explained by nerves and muscles remaining responsive; any individual specimen's condition requires separate evidence. There are several cooking styles.

Mystery solved. The only problem is that dinner started moving before the diner was mentally ready.

References (1)

[1] Natural History Museum: Hagfish [2] Korea Tourism Organization: Busan grilled hagfish [3] Korea JoongAng Daily: Busan cuisine [4] CBS News: Dancing squid and soy sauce

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