How Much Should You Sell When Decluttering for a Move? I Ended Up Buying Less

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The hard part of decluttering around a move wasn't deciding what to throw out. It was deciding how much effort to put into selling things.

Amazon might get you a good price. A flea market app could work. BOOKOFF (a big Japanese used-book and secondhand chain) can clear everything in one go. But if you try to squeeze the top price out of every single item, you're suddenly running a secondhand shop: photos, descriptions, packing, shipping, buyer questions, haggling over discounts.

So I set up three exits.

Anything Amazon FBA can handle goes to Amazon. Things Amazon blocks but that might fetch a few thousand yen go to a flea market app. Stuff that's cheap, bulky, annoying, or slow to sell goes to BOOKOFF.

I started sorting my bookshelf this way, and in the end I realized that "what will I buy from now on?" matters more than "how do I sell this?"

0. The short version: build a staircase of effort instead of chasing the top price

Two items in the same price range can take wildly different amounts of work to sell.

A small video game is easy to photograph and ship. A big figure means hunting down the box, adding padding, working out shipping, and keeping it around until someone buys it. A single book is small, but a few dozen of them suddenly turn into gym equipment.

If "how much will it sell for?" is your only test, you'll stall. Here are the rules I ended up with:

  • Can be listed on Amazon normally and sent through FBA → Amazon
  • Amazon restricts the listing, but you could get 3,000-4,000 yen or more, or it's small and easy to ship, like a game → flea market app
  • Cheap, prices have dropped, bulky, or you don't want to deal with individual buyers → bulk buyback such as BOOKOFF
  • Probably won't sell for anything → throw it out

When you're moving, getting on to the next box beats spending ten minutes to earn 100 yen more.

1. Amazon FBA's big win: you don't ship anything yourself

With FBA (Fulfillment by Amazon), you send your items to an Amazon warehouse, and Amazon takes over picking, packing, shipping to the buyer, customer service, and even returns. [1]

A large-volume seller account currently costs 4,900 yen a month (before tax) plus selling fees. That plan also gives you tools for listing items in bulk. [2]

For decluttering, the best part is that you don't have to run to the convenience store every time something sells.

If 30 books sell, you don't ship 30 times. You send them all to Amazon once at the start, and everything that happens after a sale is handled elsewhere.

More than "it sells for a good price," the real value is "I don't have to do any work after it sells."

2. The Amazon Seller app's image search is surprisingly good, and then it tells you that you can't sell the thing

The Amazon Seller app doesn't just scan barcodes. It also says you can point the camera at an item to find the matching product already on Amazon. [3]

That's very handy when you're decluttering.

A mystery figure comes out of a box.

"What was this again?"

You point the camera at it.

Candidates pop up.

You can even see market prices.

Civilization!

Then comes the next part.

"Product identified!" → "Approval is required to list this product."

The better the app is at recognizing items, the more it gets your hopes up with "I can sell everything!" and then puts up a wall.

For some listing approval requests, Amazon lays out requirements such as invoices showing a purchase of 10 or more units, or purchases within the last 180 days. An Amazon staff member explained those requirements on the Seller Forums. [4]

It makes sense as proof of sourcing for a business. But it doesn't fit at all for someone who just wants to get rid of one figure they bought years ago.

"Identified! We even know the market price! But you can't sell it!"

You're decluttering, and suddenly you're expected to live like a wholesale dealer.

3. FBA also has a "which warehouse will I get?" lottery

When you ship to FBA, you can't freely pick which Amazon warehouse receives your items. Amazon's FAQ also says sellers can't choose the destination fulfillment center (FC). [5]

That means even if you register a lot of items, once you create a shipment plan your boxes may get split up between different destinations.

So "put everything in one box and send it to Amazon, done" doesn't quite work.

Rather than trying to predict perfectly up front what can go in the same box, it's more realistic to register the items you can list, look at the shipment groups and destinations Amazon generates, and then divide your boxes.

For labeling, there's also a paid Amazon service that applies product labels for eligible items. [6] With it, you can outsource even the label sticking.

And yet the warehouse split still catches you at the very end.

It's a mostly automated factory with a gacha machine bolted onto the exit.

4. If Amazon says no, try a flea market app, but only for things that are pricey or small

If you send everything Amazon rejected to a flea market app, you become the logistics center.

Take photos. Check for scratches. Write a description. Set a price. Answer questions. Deal with haggling. Pack it once it sells. Ship it.

So I decided flea market apps are only for things worth doing all that work for, not just things that might sell.

One practical line is around 3,000-4,000 yen.

Of course it's not an exact break-even point. What matters is not piling on one-off tasks just to gain a few hundred yen.

Something small like a video game, easy to describe and light to pack, is still worth selling even at a lower price.

A big figure, on the other hand, needs more than a slightly higher price. It also bills you for all the space it takes up.

5. BOOKOFF isn't a dump, it's a way to buy your time back

BOOKOFF handles not just books but a wide range of hobby items, including figures, anime merchandise, and toys. Keep in mind that what each store accepts and the actual appraisal amount vary by store. [7][8]

Their mail-in buyback service also has a search function where you can look up prices by JAN code (the standard barcode number) or product name. They state clearly that the displayed prices are for mail-in buyback and differ from in-store prices. [9]

Something that sells for 1,000 yen individually might only fetch 100 yen in a bulk buyback.

But if earning that extra 900 yen would take 30 minutes of photographing, storing, packing, and shipping, then in some situations it's the better deal to take 100 yen and have the thing gone.

I'm not giving up on the best price.

I'm buying back my time, my floor space, and the number of decisions I have to make.

6. The bookshelf made the biggest difference: books look small, but in a group they're heavy

As I kept going, the bookshelf turned out to account for the most volume and weight.

If you try to sell books like paperback nonfiction or ordinary business books, originally around 1,500 yen, one at a time for a good price, the work will very likely outweigh the money.

On the other hand, for specialist books or rare ones that can still fetch 2,000-3,000 yen or more used, it's worth checking Amazon or a flea market app.

Everything else goes to bulk buyback.

Then the bookshelf suddenly gets lighter.

Looking at books one by one, you think "eh, I can keep this." But the moment they're in a single cardboard box, they reveal themselves: "You guys are this heavy?"

7. Why I stopped buying books: I separated "the information" from "the book itself"

I used to buy a lot of books I was curious about. But I rarely reread a book once I've finished it. Only a few real favorites stay, and the rest quietly turn into weight on the shelf.

Now I can split the roles.

  • I just want an overview or an answer to a question → AI or a web search
  • I want to read a long book once → the library
  • I want to read a particular author's way of thinking, writing, or experience itself → worth reading the book
  • I'll refer back to it again and again, want to write in it, or just love owning it → candidate to buy

If I took a reading habit like borrowing 20 books a month from the library and turned it into buying, that would be 240 books a year.

A home is not a library.

And the library even forces you to give back its stock when the due date comes. As a home inventory system, that's absurdly effective.

AI doesn't fully replace books. There's still value in reading one author's long train of thought, structure, and prose as it is.

But the need to own something just because I want the information has dropped a lot.

8. For appliances, check for high frequency, many uses, or "does the work on its own"

The criteria I heard from a person who helped with my move were interesting too.

An appliance with only one use tends to vanish into storage the moment you stop doing that one thing.

Look at the graveyard of appliances and sure enough, there are single-purpose gadgets bought because they seemed handy, now asleep.

So my pre-purchase check from now on comes down to three questions:

  1. High frequency: will I use it every week or every day?
  2. Many uses: does one machine do several jobs?
  3. Automation: once I press the switch, does the work get done even if I walk away?

Even with one use, if you use it daily it's a winner. Even with many uses, if you won't use them all, it's weak.

For big appliances, I add one more question.

"When I stop using it, how many liters of decoration will it become?"

Look not only at the purchase price but also at the future cost of storing it.

9. It's not just things: don't pay the market price for services either

The idea of owning less carries over directly to services.

When there's something you want to do, don't start by looking only at the regular private-sector price. First check whether there's a route where a third party covers the cost: local governments, public facilities, libraries, community businesses, product testers, pilot programs, and so on.

This is different from saving money by not using anything.

Same goal, cheaper route.

Don't buy a book because you want to read it; use the library.

Don't chase the top price for each item because you want to get rid of it; use FBA, flea market apps, and bulk buyback depending on how much effort each takes.

Cut the waste in ownership and paperwork rather than your quality of life.

10. Medicine is the one thing you shouldn't decide in a decluttering mood: a bag of mystery pills isn't an asset

Finally, medicine belongs in a different category, even though it sits on the same shelf.

Old prescription medicine is still in its bag, and you think: "What was this for?" "When was this from?" "I can't tell if it's still usable."

Don't decide on your own that you can use it for your next cold. The PMDA (Japan's Pharmaceuticals and Medical Devices Agency) advises not to use leftover medicine from an earlier illness on your own judgment, even if the symptoms look similar, and not to stop taking medicine on your own judgment just because you feel better. [10]

So here's the order for sorting:

  • Medicine you're taking right now on a doctor's or pharmacist's instructions → don't throw it out or stop taking it on your own
  • Leftovers from treatment that's finished, where a doctor or pharmacist said you no longer need it → check with a pharmacy or your local rules and consider disposing of it
  • Old leftovers where you don't know what it is or when it's from → don't keep it as a stockpile for treating yourself later

Pharmacy bags and instruction sheets piled up for years, dusty, with you wondering "what was this?" are less of a stockpile than storage space for uncertainty.

The point of decluttering isn't to throw everything away.

It's to get to a state where you keep only what you need and know why you're keeping it.

After building these exits through Amazon, flea market apps, and BOOKOFF, that was my biggest discovery.

It's far easier to not buy future "stuff I don't need" in the first place than it is to get good at selling stuff.


References (10)

  1. Amazon出品サービス「フルフィルメント by Amazon(FBA)」――FC納品後の保管、ピッキング、梱包、配送、カスタマーサービス、返品対応 sell.amazon.co.jp
  2. Amazon出品サービス「料金プラン、配送手数料、料金シミュレーター」――大口出品 月額4,900円(税抜)、販売手数料、一括・高度な出品機能 sell.amazon.co.jp
  3. Amazon Seller mobile app――バーコードスキャン、カメラを商品へ向けた既存商品検索・出品支援 sell.amazon.com
  4. Amazon Seller Forums / Glenn_Amazon「出品申請で提出する請求書の『10点以上』とは?」――一部申請における10 units、180日以内の請求書に関する説明 sellercentral.amazon.co.jp
  5. Amazon Seller Forums「FBA フルフィルメントセンターの稼働状況について/FAQ」――出品者は納品先FCを選択できない旨 sellercentral.amazon.co.jp
  6. Amazon Seller Forums「FBA納品時のラベル貼りをAmazonで行ってもらう場合の手数料」――Seller Centralヘルプ上の商品ラベル貼付サービスへの案内。料金・対象条件は変更され得るため利用時にSeller Centralで現行条件を再確認 sellercentral.amazon.co.jp
  7. BOOKOFF「本(書籍・雑誌・コミック)の買取・査定」――書籍の取扱い、店舗・状態による査定差 bookoff.co.jp
  8. BOOKOFF「おもちゃ・フィギュアの買取・査定」――フィギュア、アニメグッズ、玩具等の取扱い bookoff.co.jp
  9. ブックオフ宅配買取「買取価格検索」――JANコード・商品名検索、宅配買取価格と店頭価格が異なる旨 bookoffonline.co.jp
  10. PMDA「医師から処方されたくすりを使用する場合、どんなことに注意したらよいですか?」――残薬の自己判断での再使用禁止、自己判断での中止を避ける旨 pmda.go.jp

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